Monday, June 9, 2014

Kreativna direktorica Guerlaina u Zagrebu!

Kako se parfemsko događanje u Zagrebu približava, vrijeme je da Vam otkrijem svoju prvu gošću, ni manje ni više, nego kreativnu direktoricu Guerlain Paris već punih 25 godina...
 
 
Kreativna direktorica Guerlaina, Madame Sylvaine Delacourte
 
 
Nadolazeći parfemski događaj koji sam organizrao je ujedno i moj najveći uspjeh do sada. 21.6. će u 12h, u prostorijama Francuskog Instituta okupiti nekoliko uzvanika iz parfemskog svijeta, među kojima je najvažnije ime zasigurno ono od Madame Sylvaine Delacourte. Sylvaine je kreativna direktorica Guerlaina punih 25 godina te je u Guerlainu započela svoju karijeru za vrijeme dinastije Jean Paul Guerlaina, ujedno i zadnjeg Guerlaina prije preuzimanja od strane LVMH korporacije. Madame Delacurte je ujedno i jedina žena koja je sudjelovala u procesu stvaranja parfema unutar Guerlaina ikada, a njezine kreacije su L'Instant, Insolence, Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum te posebna ekskluzivna linija parfema koja se ne može naći van Francuske - l'Art et la Matière. 
Tokom karijere je surađivala s raznim parfumerima - Francis Kurkdjian (Gaultier Le Male), Maurice Roucel (Musc Ravageur) te Thierry Wasser (in-house Guerlain parfumer). Najvažnija osoba joj je u karijeri bila posljednja iz Guerlainova loze - Jean Paul Guerlain koji ju je izučio tajnama parfumerije i u čije su vrijeme zajedno izbacili remek-djela parfemske industrije (Samsara). Za ovu priliku, Guerlain je ustupio ekskluzivan video materijal koji prikazuje proces stvaranja parfema koji je često nedostupan široj javnosti.

Nadam se da Vam se sviđa moj prvi gost na parfemskoj konferenciji. Njen dolazak mi je velika čast i iznimno sam zahvalan na tome. Također, uz Delacourte, možete očekivati još dvoje posebnih gostiju na događanju! Važno je napomenuti kako će ulaz biti limitiran te je nužno da se javite na donji email!

Organizator i Vaš,

Juraj Sotošek Rihtarec

Francuski Institut
21.6.2014. u 12h
Preradovićeva 5
10 000 Zagreb

email: perfumeblog.hr@gmail.com
 

Friday, June 6, 2014

Parfem kroz povijest i kulturu - Zagreb 21/06/2014

Dragi čitaoci, prijatelji, poznanici, kolege, neopisivmo mi je zadovoljstvo da Vam predstavim svoj mali projekt u Zagrebu, 21/06/2014...
 
 
 
Zagreb 21/06/2014
 
 
Dragi moji čitaoci,
 
Prilično sam sretan dok ovo pišem jer to znači da sam finalizirao svoj projekt koji sam pripremao oko 2 mjeseca. Imam zadovoljstvo da Vam tokom jednog događanja predstavim 3 različita aspekta parfema; povijest - kako je nastao parfem, kako su tekli prvi počeci od kožarske galanterije koja se impregnirala mirisom pa do nastanka pravog parfema u tom smislu riječi, kultura - kako se parfem uzdignuo na razinu kulture i kako ga civilizacijski shvaćamo te na kraju, budućnost - kako će parfem izgledati u budućnosti.
Za sada Vam mogu reći da mi je gošća jedna od najmoćnijih žena unutar parfemskog svijeta, a radi za LVMH korporaciju već punih 25 godina. Također, ona je sudjelovala u reformulacijama najznačajnijih parfema koje mi pamtimo. Uz to, bit će prezentirana parfemksa kolekcija koja se ne može naći van Pariza, a Guerlain je ustupio ekskluzivni video materijal koji prikazuje proces nastanka parfema. Tu su još 2 posebna gosta koji će uveličati ovo parfemsko događanje svojom prisutnošću. Vrlo uskoro Vam otkrivam tko su gosti i koja parfemska kolekcija dolazi u Zagreb!
 
 
Vaš,
 
Juraj, BL'eauOG

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Rules of a gentleman - Henry Newman

How to be a gentleman?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
How to be a gentleman? There are books written in order to give the answer – guides, through blogs and popular magazines. Is there universal unification of rules or standards the one should obey in order to become one? That is why I am leaving you to read the untouched writing by Henry Newman, a scholar who did couple of writings about philosophy and education. In his writings about the University, he gave a speech how the one should follow the most virtuous path in life. I found his words very comprehensive, complex and accurate. Those are the reasons I will not change what he wrote about the manners.
 
Soon enough, I will make my own scented guide for the ultimate “gentleman perfumes” and therefore, I am leaving you with this introduction paper into the topic to enjoy.
 
 

Friday, May 9, 2014

LM Parfums Ultimate Seduction - the cult of beauty and seduction

The cult of beauty used gold resins to anoint body
 
 
 
 
 
Laurent Mazzone Parfums Ultimate Seduction
 
 
They started humble but Laurent Mazzone Parfums developed into big and leading niche perfume brand. They are spoiling us each year, better to say, each season with something new. The newest edition is extract of perfume - Ultimate Seduction. The perfume that is very modern and very "different" than the rest of the LM perfume line. Yet, Ultimate Seduction has the opulence and the heart traditional to that house.

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Nouveau parfum de LM Parfums - Ultimate Seduction, le printemps est pour une séduction

Le printemps est pour une séduction
 
 
LM Parfums Ultimate Seduction
 
 
 
LM Parfums a fait une surprise pour le printemps 2014. La dernière année la surprise a été Chemise Blanche, un parfum très lumineux avec des notes d’iris, de blanches fleurs et du musc sublime. Ce printemps, la surprise est Ultimate Seduction ! Un parfum très intrigant et avec l’atmosphère noir. Le fondateur de brand LM est Laurent Mazzone qui est déterminé de faire un nouveau Extrait de Parfum. Extraits des Parfums de LM ont 20% des huiles essentiels et ils sont très fort et opulent. Par exemple, Hard Leather (Extrait de Parfum) a le sillage très fort. Cette fois, l’inspiration d’Ultimate Seduction est de la folie,  de l’obsession, de la passion, de la séduction et des émotions qui sont relient avec la passion. Il sera présenté à la fin d’avril ! Nous l’attendons Laurent !
 §
LM Parfums made a surprise for the spring 2014. The last year’s surprise was Chemise Blanche, very luminous perfume with the notes of iris, white flowers and sublime musk. This spring, the surprise is Ultimate Seduction! For now, it is very intriguing perfume with the noir atmosphere. The founder of the brand LM is Laurent Mazzone who is determined to do the new Extrait de Parfum. Extraits of Parfums of LM are around 20% of essential oils and they are very strong and opulent. For example, Hard Leather (Extrait de Parfume) has enormous sillage. This time, the inspiration for Ultimate Seduction was insanity, obsession, passion and all the emotions connected to the passion. It will be presented by the end of April.
 
Juraj, BL'eauOG


Thursday, April 3, 2014

Ramón Monegal: Dubai Next To Me - review of Monegal's bespoke perfume


Welcome to the voyage to Arabia
 
 
 
Ramón Monegal Dubai Next To Me

Ramón Monegal line is consisted of many wonderful perfumes, but there is none similar to this one. This is completely new scent creation within Monegal line of perfumes and the perfume brings oriental atmosphere. It is the opportunity to smell extremely natural saffron note which is one of the most expensive essence material. It also has the sweetness traditional to oriental perfumes making it opulent and a bit decadent.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

New perfume by Parfumerie Générale Grand Siècle Intense 7.1

Grand Siècle Intense with 20% of powdery freshness
  
Grand Siècle Intense 7.1
 
As being a declared fan of Pierre Guillaume, I watch closely what he does. This time he announced hesperidic/aromatic/woody/ambery/powdery perfume with 20% of essentials. He interprets bitter hesperidic accord from the Cologne Grand Siècle to the more concentrated version. It means that the perfume will be more opulent but maybe even more powdery. EDP structure offers wide range of maneuvers and usually those kinds of perfumes are more "rounded" as a whole. The perfume attracted me because it can be considered as a part of new aesthetic movement which started with Dior and their powdery accord. Probably unconsciously iris/hesperidic/powdery accord started to emerge since early 2000s as dominant aesthetics. Knowing Pierre this will be a brilliant vision - hopefully. After all, the picture represents king's Louis XIV Sun. Only the perfect perfumes were the part of his "perfumed court". "In the top notes, the citrus mosaic is dominated by the essence of bitter orange and lemon tree leaves, boosted with aromatic cypress and mint for added strength and diffusiveness. Tobacco absolute and new mown hay subtly warm the heart of the fragrance, bolstered by woody base notes of patchouli and vetiver, slightly tinged with honey and oak moss." There is no fresh perfume within PG line that is consisted of 20%, only Hyperessence Matale has 30% and those 30% are mostly green tones. We will see how he will pull out citrus/powdery fresh tones, simply can't wait!

Citrusy notes: Bergamot Bitter, Orange, Lemon leaves
Aromatic notes: Mint, Cypress
Woody notes: Patchouli, Oakmoss absolute
Ambery tones: Tobacco absolute, Hay cutting,
Powdery: Honey
 
Juraj, BL'eauOG


 

Friday, March 28, 2014

L'eau de Phaedon ; the future meets IFRA regulation

 
The brilliant vision of the perfumery
 
 
 
 
The new perfume by Phaedon Paris
 
 
 
Welcome to the future of perfumery. I need to say that I am very happy to write about this creation because it represents many things. It is the perfume that completely meets IFRA 47 regulation and is totally allergen-free. It means that L’eau de Phaedon was made under the new set of rules customized by International Fragrance Association. IFRA and EU regulations often repel popular thought about perfumes. Also, everything that comes as the result of those regulations is subject of negative critics without previous testing. L’eau de Phaedon is very beautiful creation with lots of creativity and beautiful philosophy. The perfume also represents the new aesthetics of perfume making, welcome to the unseen effect of the perfumery so far.
 

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

A glimpse into the Chanel world

 
 
Welcome to the world of exclusivity and heritage
 
 
 


 Espace Chanel Zagreb
 
 I had an honor to experience the small taste of Chanel world and I need to tell you – it is gorgeous. Everybody would like to enter the Chanel world and see how it works so I must admit I had the privilege of the few. When we talk about Chanel, many think of Coco, her provocative lifestyle and brilliant clothes but the other side of the coin is the perfume heritage that shaped the perfume making of the time. Some of the most historic perfumes ever created are part of Les Exclusifs de Chanel. Welcome to that World.

Friday, March 14, 2014

Phaedon Paris ; L'eau de Phaedon

The future of the perfumery - L'eau de Phaedon
 
 
 
 
L'eau de Phaedon - allergen-free perfume
 
  
 
 
It seems that the future of the perfumery already started. Can we say that it starts with Phaedon Paris? Who followed the news about European Union committee about consumer’s health, could notice that new regulation is about to emerge. IFRA’s regulations made quite a noise among perfume public because it is trying to change the philosophy of perfume making. It is believed that there is 3 percent of population within EU that is allergic to some raw materials in perfumes. That requires the structural change in perfume making. Some molecules will be banned and the other ones need to replace them. I have the opportunity to announce the launching of the first perfume of that kind, with no allergens at all. L’eau de Phaedon is the first of its kind. The perfume meets IFRA 47 regulation and is composed of allergen-free components. It is a step forward in perfumery and the one should know that Phaedon is orchestrated by the vision of Pierre Guillaume as well. He is a perfumer that has vision and that pushes forward the boundaries of perfumery. I told many times that he is a perfumer that won the critics of his colleagues and respect of perfume writers. L’eau de Phaedon belongs to the family of Floral-Woody-Musk perfumes which is one of the most compatible perfume families. It is also imagined to be suave cologne for the whole family. The floral opening blends white neroli and jasmine with fruity notes of yellow mandarin. Aloe vera and agave leaves add an aquatic, vegetable softness to the fragrance, which evolves towards a soft, comfortable woody musky base, for a “cocoon” effect. The composition is made of; White Neroli, Jasmine, Yellow Mandarine, Aloe Vera, Agave Leaves, Blond Woods and Musk. It is obvious that the purpose of the perfume is to bring a total new philosophy of perfume culture. It will be a perfume for everyday and every time use no matter on purpose and occasion. The perfume based on aloe vera can bring the fragrant life to those who do not prefer perfumes as well. I think that is the most important idea of this perfume. A person, who wasn’t able to use it, now has the opportunity to use superb-quality perfume. It is the perfume that will be launched tomorrow and the perfume public should watch it closely because of its impact. It is the major step forward for perfumery. The full review will come next week where you will be able to read about the core idea of this perfume!
 
Juraj, BL'eauOG