Cacharel Anais Anais; true classic - story and review

 It's the first time that one of the classics which has significantly marked the perfume history is being reviewed on this blog. Despite its year of launching it still smells modern and sensual, and in its heart is classic french bouquet which is opulent. There are only few fragrances which brought something radically new to the perfume world, it stands face to face with Chanel No. 5. Why it's so important and paradigmatic you can read below.

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Prvi puta se na ovom blogu pojavljuje kritika/review jednog parfema koji se svrstava u klasike i koji su obilježili parfemsku povijest. Unatoč njegovoj godini izrade i dalje miriši moderno i zavodnički, a u srcu mu je klasični francuski buket koji očarava. Malo koji parfem je toliko novoga donio u parfemsku svijet kao ovaj, stoji uz bok Chanelu No. 5, a zašto je toliko važan i paradigmatski možete pročitati u tekstu.  

Kate Moss for Cacharel Anais Anais

Modern perfume history is certainly interesting and it's marked with classics as it is the fashion industry marked with some huge fashion names. If there would be the list of the most important fragrances ever made, Cacharel Anais Anais would be in it.

Why is it so paradigmatic?

At the time of its creationing in 1978. year, nobody could predict that it will be a block-buster perfume, especially because in the commercial were carnal women with porcelain beauty. Its success lies in a new type of commercial advertising at the time and so it became the symbolic perfume of the eighties. The market requested something new and Cacharel offered exactly that focusing on a youthful group of women giving them what they actually wanted and that was fresh, floral perfume which will be at the same time sexy, prestigious, inovative and distinguished from traditional forms of creations. For the first period of its selling, it was sold for the 30% lower price than the rest of the concurention like Dior, Chanel, Lacroix and it has appeared in small chain stores which weren't strictly specialised for scents and by that philosophy, Cacharel gained new amount of clientele. After one year, success was tremendeous and that enabled Cacharel to set the bar higher and they were in a year standing side by side with the rest of haute brands (Dior, Chanel) and from that moment, Anais Anais was only distribuited specifically to the haute perfumeries and specialised stores. Cacharel made a revolution! Why? Cacharel brought, for the first time, clientele of medium purchasing power to the haute and exclusive stores! It was the first perfume which was bought from the pocket-money. The reason why it has gained such success is because Cacharel was the first perfume brand to use the power of the new media - TV! It was the first perfume ever that was advertised on a television, and on the other hand, it's also revolutionary because it was a first perfume that was sold in opaque bottle ever stimulating mystery. It was the new marketing paradigm. Bottles were very important at the time and this one had great effect because it captured the looks from the shop-window or while it was on shelters and inspiration for making such bottle was in a porcelain which was made in 19. century. The last marketing detail around this famous perfume is regarding its name. Does it means something to you? It remains a mystery to judge by yourself whether it was a reference to a writer Anais Nin who wrote erotic literature which was forbidden to the children and the name was "Delta of Venus" or was it invocation to the Greek goddess Anaitis who was the goddess of fertility. Cacharel was keen to move toward Anaitis theory but it was never officialy confirmed. The reason why (for all of that) was because Cacharel targeted youthful population which was drawn into the luxorious market and with all the marketing tricks, around Anais Anais was always mystery arousal.
 Perfume itself is beautiful and it is a synonym for romanticism, gentleness and it is supposed to be a perfume carrier of a woman who is gentle, love flowers, better to say, loves the flower fields of vast plantations of lily of the Valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang and rose. The name itself is very catchy and it gives us to think about and suggests that the composition could be very feminine. Top notes are composed mostly of gardenia, hyacinth while the middle ones are made of rose, orange flower and jasmine while in the base are sandalwood, cedar and amber. Those are the notes which can be primarily sensed, the whole composition is made of tens of notes. At the opening, hyacinth can be sensed which is very floral note by itself, but after that, we are coming to the most beautiful part of a perfume - its heart which is made of a classic french bouquet. As you smell the Chanel No. 5 and put aside aldehydes, you can sense the classic french floral bouquet composed of ylang-ylang, jasmine and rose. The same thing is with Anais Anais - it has beautiful aldehydes and the heart is composed of classic french bouquet which is putting it to the classic aesthetic school. Beautiful heart is probably the reason why it gained so much audience, it's ultra feminine, sensual and flertatious, simply beautiful. By its appearance it is unusual and such perfumes can not be found among the modern perfume industry. With this one you will be unique and what's more important, you will not smell from another time, au contraire, it is stunningly modern and like it was made for a few years ahead. Perfect perfume to make you feel sensual and unique because it has everything what is necessary for a high quality perfume. It was mastered by 4 perfumers but Roger Pellegrino was the most influential because most of his impressions are in the perfume - he wanted it to capture the moment of lost dreams and beautiful memories, pastel dresses and on everything which is slowing down the aging.Maybe it's time to capture your moments wich Cacharel?

About the scent

Official notes are next

Top: bergamot, galbanum, hyacinth, honeysuckle, orange blossom

Middle:Lilly of the Valley, violet, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation

Base: cedar, sandalwood, oak moss, incens, vetiver

Although it was made 30 years ago, it is stil modern and it's not "old" at all, it doesn't give the impression of a perfume from different time and aesthetics which can't be said for the perfume from same period. The campaign itself suggested there are motives in feminism and womanity and they managed to produce feminine fragrance which isn't complicated. Opening is floral-green with dominant notes of galbanum. Tuberose can't be felt a lot even though it is a note from bruthal aesthetics, it gives only a touch of floral sweetness. The base isn't extravagant and it's offering sensuality, warmness and clean feeling. The scent that isn't demanding but still interesting and sensual. I would say it's a little bit erotic, well, that's why it's called Anais Anais, right? 

Do you use it? How do you like it? How do you feel while wearing it?

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Moderna parfemska povijest je svakako zanimljiva i obilježena velikim klasicima isto kao što je i modna industrija obilježena velikim modnim imenima. Da se mora sažeti i sumirati na jednu listu nekoliko najvažnijih parfema ikada napravljenih, tu bi zasigurno svoje mjesto pronašao i Cacharelov parfem Anais Anais. 

Zašto je paradigmatski? 

U doba njegovog stvaranja 1978. godine, nitko nije mogao predvidjeti da će biti block-buster parfem jer su se u reklamama pojavljivale putene žene s porculanskom ljepotom. Njegov uspjeh djelomično leži i u novom načinu marketinškog oglašavanja i postao je simboličan parfem osamdesetih godina. Tržište je zahtijevalo nešto novo, a Cacharel je upravo to ponudio fokusirajući se na skupinu mladih žena i davajući im ono što zapravo žele, a to je sveži, cvijetni parfem koji će istovremeno biti sexy, prestižan i istovremeno inovativan te se odmaknuti od tradicionalnih formi stvaranja. Prvotno se počeo prodavati po 30% nižoj cijeni od ostale konkurencije poput Diora, Chanela, Lacroixa i pojavljivao se u manjim lančanim dućanima koji nisu bili isključivo specijalizirani samo za mirise te su time pridobili za sebe veliki broj klijentele. Nakon godinu dana, uspjeh je bio ogroman i to je omogućilo Cacharelu da postavi letvicu više tako da se postavi uz bok svim ostalim tadašnjim brandovima i da Anais Anais od sada pa nadalje bude distribuiran isključivo u visokim parfumerijama i specijaliziranim dućanima. Revolucionarno je to da je time Cacharel u „visoke“ trgovine doveo klijentelu srednje kupovne moći! Prvi parfem koji se kupovao od džeparca. Razlog te vrste uspjeha je u tome što je Cacharel prvi na svijetu  iskoristio TV kao medij oglašavanja za parfemsku industriju, to je prvi parfem koji se počeo pojavljivati na TV-u, a s druge strane predstavlja potpuno novu paradigmu u marketingu  jer je to ujedno i prvi parfem u povijesti da se pojavljuje u neprozirnoj bočici potičući time misteriju. Bočice su bile vrlo važne, a ova je bila vrlo efektivna jer je zaustavlja poglede iz izloga ili na policama, a inspiracija za nju je pronađena u porculanu koji se proizvodio u 19. stoljeću. Zadnji zanimljiv detalj marketinške fame oko ovog parfema je njegovo ime. Znači li Vam išta? Ostaje misterija da sami prosudite je li Anais Anais bila referenca na spisateljicu Anais Nin i njezinu erotičnu literaturu koja je svojevremeno bila zabranjivana djeci, a zvala se „Delta Venere“ ili je to invokacija na antičku božicu Anaitis koja je božica plodnosti. Službeno je sama kompanija naginjala tome da je uzor pronašla u božici Anaitis, ali to nikada nije potvrđeno. Razlog tome je ciljana mlada populacija koja je prvi puta uvučena u svijet luksuzne robe, a sa svim nabrojenim marketinškim trikovima, oko Anais Anais parfema se uvijek nadvijala misterija.

Sam parfem je predivan, sinonim je za romantizam i nježnost i predviđen je da nosi sliku žene koja je nježna i koja voli cvijeće, odnosno, bolje rečeno, obožava cvjetna polja nepreglednih nasada đurđica, jasmina, ylang-ylanga i ruže. Samo ime je već jako zvučno i već daje naslutiti da se radi o iznimno ženstvenoj kompoziciji. Gornje note su napravljene od zumbula i gardenie, srednje od ruže, jasmina i narančinog cvijeta dok su u bazi sandalovina, cedrovina i amber. Naravno, ovdje su istaknute one note koje se osjete i kod laika, a cijela kompozicija je sastavljena od nekoliko desetaka nota. Pri otvaranju je zumbul u prvom planu što je već samo po sebi jaka cvijetna nota, a nakon toga dolazi najlijepši dio cijelog parfema, a to je njegovo srce sačinjeno od klasičnog franucskog buketa. Kada pomirišite Chanel No. 5 i odstranite aldehide, u srcu mu se nalazi klasični francuski buket, ista stvar je i s Anais Anaisom jer i on u sebi sadrži aldehide također, ali srce mu je napravljeno od klasičnog franucskog buketa što ga svrstava među klasičnu estetsku školu, a taj buket čine ruža, jasmin i ylang ylang. Predivno srce zbog kojeg je i osvojio toliku publiku, ultra ženstven, zavodnički, prelijep. Sa svojim pojavljivanjem je neobičan parfem i takvih kompozicija u modernoj parfumeriji više nema. S ovim parfemom ćete biti jedinstveni, a što je još važnije, nećete mirisati van vremena, dapače, parfem je iznimno moderan i u svoje vrijeme izlaska, bio je rađen za nekoliko godina ispred. Jako lijep i savršen parfem koji će prouzročiti to da se s njim osjećate senzualno, zavodljivo i jedinstveno jer u sebi sadrži sve što jedan kvalitetan parfem mora imati. Na njemu su radila čak četvorica parfumera od kojih je glavni bio Roger Pellegrino i koji je najviše dao svoje impresije u kompoziciju – htio je da podsjeća na davno izgubljene snove i lijepe uspomene, pastelne ljetne haljine i na sve što usporava starenje (makar ste u godinama). Možda je vrijeme da zarobite dio ovog vremena upravo Cacharelom!

O samom mirisu

Službene note su slijedeće: 

Top: bergamot, galbanum, zumbul, med, narančin cvijet
Srednje: ljubičica, đurđica, ruža, ylang-ylang, tuberoza, karanfil

Baza: cedrovo drvo, sandalovina, amber, mahovina, tamjan, vetiver

Iako je napravljen prije 30. godina, miris je i dalje moderan te nije ni malo 'zastario', odnosno ne odaje dojam da je iz drugog vremena kao što je to slučaj s ostalima iz tog perioda. Samom promocijom i mirisom se zapravo ciljalo na feministički pokret jednim dijelom, to sugerira i reklamnja kampanja i pritom su se usredotočili na ženstven, ali ne i kompliciran miris. Samo otvaranje je cvijetno-zeleno u kojem je dominantna nota galbanuma. Tuberoza kao jedan od sastojaka brutalne estetike se uopće ne osjeti u velikoj mjeri jer je napravljena dominantna kompozicija buketa. Baza također nije ekstravagantna i nudi senzualnost, toplinu i čistoću. Miris koji nije zahtjevan, a opet je zanimljiv, senzualan i zavodljiv. Ja bih rekao da je pomalo i erotičan, uostalom, zato se i zove Anais Anais, zar ne? 

Jeste li ga koristili? Kako Vam se sviđa? Kako se osjećate noseći ga?

BL'eauOG:

Artisanal craft (1-5): 5

Type: floral 

For: all year

Purpose: signature, intimate sensual moments

Note: beautiful, sensual and seductive french bouquet 

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picture: theperfumeshop.com & hetibrandenburg.com