End of year always brings up the best of...
As the previous year, this one was interesting too. Mainly because of some rearrangements of the formulations and pushing the boundaries of perfumes in the niche world, while mainstream perfumery lacks of imagination, bravery and creativity. The criteria for the following perfumes was to bring something new.
Parfumerie Generale & Huitieme Art - it is impossible to start without highlighting probably the best creator nowadays. Pierre Guillaume stands behind 4 beautiful creations which 2 of them were only the concept scents without being released, but anyway, they deserve the attention because it is the obvious sign that it is possible to push the boundaries of the perfumery. Furthermore, it is possible that his future creations and usage of molecules could shape the path of artistic perfumery. In an interview he gave to Sergey Borisov on 26th of September, Pierre told: "The Contemplation Collection is to be considered a Concept Car in a motor car show: These fragrances are created in absolute concentration and are not meant be released to the open market. Last year, we had the idea to make an end after 10 years of creation. This year, I want to experiment with new raw materials, new accords and share the reactions of the visitors". Those perfumes are Ironic Bliss and Indian Rhapsody which are using molecule called Alpha Irone. Pierre emerged as one of the most creative perfumers who gained the respect of his rivals - colleagues, friends and other fellow perfumers. He showed the same talent creating Monsieur for Huitieme Art - probably the best perfume of the year based on phyto-perfumery, made of only woody components. The idea translated from his vision of nature to the scent is simply amazing and that is why Monsieur and Pierre deserve to be as the best perfumer and perfume of the year.
Masque Fragranze Montecristo - It was very hard to decide whether Montecristo is the best perfume of the year. It stands equally as Monsieur by Huitieme Art. Masque Fragranze is a brand that will be more known to larger audience in 2014. when they release the perfume called Tango. Montecristo is consisted of deep woody and animal notes. Animal notes are the reason why it deserves special attention. After the change of aesthetics from natural to synthetic sources, it is among the few that has so natural animal odour. It is a brave composition and small perfume "bomb".
Phaedon Paris Tabac Rouge - I believe there are only few scents that captured the scent of honey really well and Tabac Rouge is one of them. The use of honey in niche perfumery went to the mainstream as well. Two honey-based perfumes were important - Back to Black and Vanille-Tobacco. Tabac Rouge brought the scent of pure and sweet honey without having smoky tobacco in the first phase. It has magnificent raw materials. There is another Phaedon I need to mention and that is Sable Marocaine. Sable Marocaine was made by Pierre Guillaume and with Tabac Rouge, it is the best Phaedon scent. Beautiful citruses combined with sandal and olfactive feeling of the gold dust.
Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum - In a search for the Philosopher's Stone, he finally dig out the perfume that shines like a gold. The reason Lapis Philosophorum is beautiful is very simple - because it has the most unique mineral and wine accord. After the wine accord it turns into musky and peppery perfume. The creation shows great liberty and creativity. It is the most successful Durbano's scent so far! Beautiful!
LM Parfums Chemise Blanche - Original idea was to translate the scent of the neat white shirt. It is the most different LM so far because it is not based on heavy woods. It is based on beautiful iris mixed up with aldehydes forming gentle and soft atmosphere. The combination forms unique odour of "chemical" atmosphere, cotton, crispiness, pureness. Finishing is composed even more softer. The quality and the percentage of the oils is simply extraordinary! LM Parfums is one of the perfume brands that will surprise us very soon, trust me!
Mona di Orio Violette Fumée - Violet flower was originally used as the ingredient for men's scent. Few decades later in the last century it turned to be a part of feminine perfumes. Nowadays is the perfect unisex and that just shows how the gender roles are the social construct which is temporal. Mona di Orio exercised the new breed of violet flower by showing its another facet. Violets in contemporary perfumes are very usual and maneuvered with lots of moisture. In this perfume we can meet the dry violet leaf with woods and vetiver.
Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena - There is nothing much to be sad about it because everything is clear and simple. Iris Nazarena is beautiful iris combined with leather. The only bad thing is the longevity. It is the aesthetics Dior Homme introduced but Bertrand Duchafour mastered it until perfection with this one.
Meo Fusciuni Luce - It was a complete surprise. It is unknown perfumer to the most but I believe that soon enough he will be known to many because he also created superb perfume for Masque Fragranze called Luci e Ombre. Luce is a perfume that needs to be understood with another Fusciuni's perfume called Nocturno. Both perfumes are making a story of the light and darkness. Luce is one of the most beautiful light and luminous perfumes I've experienced in 2013. The use of soft and light woods is simply astonishing. The scent trails is gentle but present. The way Meo Fusciuni maneuvered its components to be so gentle and transparent is simply beautiful. One of the bigest surprises!
Nu_Be Hg - A big surprise from Nu_Be! It is one of the most interesting and brave compositions of the year. The use of aldehydes are making it different than the other Nu_Be perfumes and different than many perfumes out there. The aldehydes are making it unique and unusual and it shows that perfumery has a lot to offer. It reminds of the golden age of perfumery when aldehydes in combination with woods and florals were used.
Tom Ford Sahara Noir & Bottega Veneta Pour Homme - both perfumes are an absolute win! They are coming from the mainstream line but they are both in their own genre absolute winners. Sahara Noir is sexy and seductive perfume, made for daring nights. Pour Homme is the vision of an interesting man who can be elegant and seductive at the same time.
There are some perfumes that didn't bring anything new but they need to be mentioned. Puredistance Black is very beautiful composition of bergamot, cardamon and sandalwood that is made for the night and seduction time. Similar is with the Eutopie No. 6, very beautiful perfume with dry woods and interesting leather notes. Almost forgotten brand released very interesting perfume and that is Boucheron Place Vandome, those who love the aesthetics of older perfumery will love it. Narciso Rodriguez Amber Musc is very interesting and sensual composition as well.
On the other hand, there are some perfumes that deserve to be mentioned in a negative way. I don't even know why Versace launched Eros. There is simply nothing to say about it. Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire is one of the worst flankers of The One. The One EdP is very beautiful creation by itself. Desire is based on the peach and sweet florals which makes it a typical teen scent. I just want to point out that the mainstream perfumery lacks of inspiration or imagination or just simply - bravery. Armani Si is a poor answer to the Lancome La Vie est Belle. Lancome is far more better by its quality and the scent. Hugo Boss is continuing making catastrophic perfumes full of Calone. A big no goes to the following as well: Guerlain La Petite Robe Noir Couture, Versace, Burberry Brit Rhytm, Elie Saab L'Eau Couture, Eau de Lacoste Sensuelle. Laboratiorio Olfattivo Daimiris is not a bad scent but it's not superb either. It lacks the final touch to round the olfactive story. Finally, By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad and Forbidden Games are like wrapped mainstream perfumes in the niche mask.
What are your favorites of 2013.?
Do you think there should be another perfumes on the list?