Interview with Pissara Umaviani from Dusita Parfums

Person in the spotlight

Pissara Umaviani from Dusita Parfums

Perfume community can't stop talking about new, Parisian based perfume brand - Dusita Parfums. I believe that the reason behind this lies in the energy of Pissara Umaviani who is giving all her efforts for her new startup. It's a collection of three interesting perfumes, completely different one from another. A line to discover. This is the interview where I had a nice talk with Pissara and I hope that you will enjoy as much as we did!

1. Can you describe – who is Ploi Pissara Umavijani? 

I think she’s probably a bit strange. I like running marathons. In the athletic sense and in the career race I’m running to establish a perfume company. In both I find it’s about challenging oneself more than it is about racing against other people. In fact it can be quite lonely -- “the loneliness of the long distance runner”! But there’s also a strong sense of freedom that I enjoy. In running I love the freedom of being out in free fresh air and nature. In perfumes I love the freedom to create fragrances that inspire me. Perhaps it’s summed up in the name my parents gave me – Pissara, in Sanskrit has a meaning above/ beyond “freedom”. All Thais have nicknames too which family and friends mostly use - mine is “Ploi”, which has nothing to do with freedom – it actually means a gem. But Pissara is who I am. So, I think you can say Pissara Umavijani is someone who values her freedom above everything. 

 2. How would you describe yourself? 

 A traditionalist – some might say I’m “old fashioned”, like a vintage green chypre perfume , a bit enigmatic and a bit daring. I can be stubborn – I don’t give up easily on things I’m determined to do. I enjoy meeting new people, but I also cherish opportunities for solitude. I don’t have a lot of friends, but those I have are very firm and true.

3. What are your passions in life? 

My main passion is to be happy. For me happiness means understanding myself and making sure the people around me feel happy. Life has so many things to offer. I try to maintain a kind of equilibrium in the various aspects of my life. In particular with the things I really love doing the most – blending perfumes and discovering new fragrances, travelling, running in a forest feeling peace and freedom, and singing !

4. What gives you drive? 

Love ! It creates passion and positivity to go through life.

Dusita Parfums collection

 

5. How do you spend your day? What is your routine? 

The most important thing that defines my day is my morning routine. I wake up quite early, around 6:30, and I start the day with a routine of meditation and thinking positively – feeling grateful for my life. I usually make a call to loved ones, my family or someone close, and then begin to look at my priorities for the day and overall. I like making myself a healthy breakfast such as oatmeal granola followed by eggs benedict – I think I cook a killer salmon benedict ! I also share breakfast and breakfast time with my faithful little friend – my dog. Then, I go to work for Dusita, which occupies the rest of my day often until late. 

6. Can you explain the difference between the life in Asia and Paris?

I would answer that, for me, with two words – rhythm and isolation. My life in Bangkok is dynamic, surrounded by family and friends. It’s fun to socialize but I do not feel the quietness one needs to create something. Part of me seeks the isolation and solitude that helps creativity. I think my father, who was an internationally acclaimed poet, loved traveling so much because it gave him the isolation that fed his creativity. Life in Paris is totally different for me. Most of my time here is devoted to Parfums Dusita. I sometimes isolate myself to become immersed in a project. The part I enjoy most is working in the laboratory. And when it gets too intense, I take my bike and ride out for 20 km or so, to get away and lose myself somewhere in nature. There I can lie on the grass, breath fresh air and enjoy the quietness I need to think creatively. 

 7. You say for yourself that you are very passionate. What does that actually means? 

Having passion means one is open to life and opportunities to explore things to a deeper level of understanding and therefore appreciation. There are many things I like to do with intensity. I guess the Buddhist idea of mindfulness has a lot to do with that. I remember years ago I loved the plant called Dorstenia because of its fascinating, small coconut-like shapes. I had a vast collection of Dorstenia species and Euphorbia plants which also have unusual floral shapes. My passion then was to study them, to find what is the best soil , watering and growing conditions for them. Then, I started to find a group of friends who shared the same passion – we’d meet regularly to discuss the plants. 

8. Do you often fall in love ?

With life yes, all the time !

Dusita Issara

9. Have you contacted many perfume bloggers and journalists ? If someone asks you for a 
romantic date, who would you want it to be? 

All of them ! I’ve contacted some that I knew of and others have contacted me. I’d like to organize a party for all of them. I’d mix different cocktails and cook Thai food. We could discuss about many things. It could be fun! 

10. Which perfume does your dream person wear? 

It must be a scent that reflects his individuality, but for me his personality must shine more than his perfume I think. But I would not mind if he likes some vintage classics like Pour Un Homme, 4711, Jicky, or Fougere Royale. 

11. How did you start to love perfumes? 

It started when I was very young, growing up in a house full of old books which still has a memorable smell for me. We had a big garden with all kinds of natural fragrances. The first smells I really remember are freshly cut grass and wet soil, and amazing scents from plants like frangipani and jasmine. I love tropical gardens. I think often a particular smell recalls memories of people or places with more depth of feeling than a photograph or even words can do. 

12. You said you already started to mix perfumes in Asia, where you were born. How did you do that? Which raw materials did you use? 

Yes I did start there. That was another passion I developed when I was still a student. I put together a small palette of basic perfumery materials, both naturals and synthetics, and I remember I was very obsessed with it. I installed a sort of “perfume shrine” at my mother’s place and destroyed two of her beautiful tables! Oh dear! Fortunately she did forgive me. I was having great fun experimenting with different combinations. I thought of it like being a painter adding colors to a blank canvas. The first natural raw ingredient I remember using successfully was Clary Sage, which I blended with Pine and Tonka Beans absolute as the start of what became the perfume Issara. 

13. You turned to be professional in the perfume world. How did that happen? 

There are certain things that I believe in life. First of all, I would always encourage people to follow their passion, even it maybe extremely difficult to do so. It began with just pure enjoyment and passion for perfumery. Creating Dusita is what I aspired to do in life and this gives me strength to overcome obstacles. Although I did not expect much attention, I only wished to deliver the quality products, the brand that has a story to tell, and the good relations with people who share the same passion. 

14. Did you create your first three perfumes completely on your own or did you have a perfumer by your side? 

I created them on my own, over a number of years actually. The whole reason why I created this brand because the freedom of creation is so important to me. 

15. How do you see yourself in the next 5 years?

I hope to be working a bit less than today! Perhaps have more time to create perfumes – I love the process of perfume creation and am happy doing it nights and days! In five years, I hope to be having a happy life with more time for seeing loved ones, travelling to see my family and taking care of them more. I envisage Dusita growing as a company and becoming an organization where people would like to work. My aspiration is to have a perfume lab in the middle of a wood - trees, greenery and fresh fragrance all around -- where I can completely focus on the creations… I may even include having a family with children and a faithful dog in that dream….

16. Do you think that your distant future is in perfumes, since you are still very young? 

I think it’s more important to focus on the present. Mindfulness again! At the moment we are still a young brand and I’m very lucky to be working with a dynamic team who are totally devoted to our project. We’re grateful for what we’ve achieved, but we also have the ambition to aim higher – offering a better service to our perfume loving customers, expanding distribution and the product line, adding more & better fragrances, and establishing a strong brand identity. There’s plenty to aim for !

Oudh Infini - my favorite

17. What will be your next creation?

It will be a scent I’ve already created that connects with my own Siamese heritage which I have played with a new traditional ingredient. Also, I will launch another green leather Chypre eau de parfum, inspired by a vintage fragrance. They will be lauched at PITTI this year. 

18. Is there a perfume brand you wish was yours? 

 One of my all-time favorites Bandit created by Robert Piguet in 1944. It really suggested to me how a woman should be. Overall I was inspired by Chanel , and the determination of Coco Chanel. For me, she is the brand, not only for the perfume, but for the courage of a woman who never gave up. She has inspired me a lot.

I want to thank Pissara for taking time to respond and for this funny and interesting inerview. It was a pleasure to talk with you!

Juraj, BL'eauOG