By Kilian Incense Oud

We came to the last perfume from the Arabian Nights collection. If this perfume was a part of that stories it would be dedicated to a story of Sinbad and his 7 voyages. Unlike other perfumes from the collection which are described below, this one is the most spicy and is less concentrated with precious oud oil which is essential for recognition of Middle East.
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I došli smo do zadnjeg parfema iz kolekcije Arapskih priča. Da je ovaj parfem dio tih priča i da ih on čini, bio bi posvećen priči o Sinbadu i njegovih 7 putovanja. Razlog tome je što je ovaj parfem za razliku od prethodna 2 već opisana, najviše začinski i ima u sebi najmanju količinu skupocjenog oudovog ulja koje je esencija Bliskog Istoka.

The goal of this perfume was to build one based on two important rivalry ingredients, and those are as the same suggests - incense and oud oil. Each one from the line is modern interpretation and it's not western or eastern, its interpretation of Kilian and his perfumers, in this case is Sidonie Lancesseur. The attempt was to made synthesis of traditional ingredients which are important for oriental culture. Incense was burned in religious rituals and it was important for every religion society and customs, and oud from agarwood is of tremendeous value for Orient because it is even consiedered to be more precious than the gold in some countries (as I wrote in previous posts). Creation is interestin because of spices and used woods, but only thing which is missing in it is - higher percentage of oud accord.

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Cilj ovog parfema je bilo izgraditi parfem na temelju dva važna rivalitetna satojka, a to je kao što i ime sugerira - tamjan i oud ulje. Svaki iz linije je moderna interpretacija i nije niti zapadna, a niti istočna, nego interpretacija Kiliana i parfumera, u ovom slučaju Sidonie Lancesseura. Pokušan je napraviti spoj 2 tradicionalna sastojka koji su ključni za proučavanje tamošnje kulture. Tamjan koji se palio u vjerske obrte u gotovo svim vjerskim zajednicama i običajima i oud ulje iz agar drva koje je od enormne vrijednosti za Orijent pošto je smatran i skupljim od zlata u nekim zemljama (kao što sam napisao u prošlim postovima). Kreacija je jako zanimljiva zbog začina i korištenog drva, no ono što fali ovom parfemu je malo veći postotak oudovog akorda koje malo fali u ovoj kreaciji.

Due to the lack of oud, other notes, and especially incense, takes the initiative over the whole composition. To me, it is a flaw that the greater percentage of oud is lacking because it would suit perfectly to accompany this nice incense. Oud is offered only at the begining and it can't be sensed at later stages. The opening is very floral and sharp because of strong incense and oud. As the perfume expands, the note of incense is developing and it recieved a form as one in the church but that was just for a moment, later it transitst into very pleasant dry note which is combined with flowers. Nefore the linear phase of perfume, the smell of rose can be easily sensed, but that is geranium over the pure rose. The rest of the notes in that phase are cardamon, papyrus and pepper. Fragrance is comfortably spicy and it has a good balance, it's not assailant. I have put aside a note of patchouly because it can be sensed all the time like an incense. If you do not concentrate on a floral and spicy notes, you will sense patchouly as the dominant with the incense.After a while and when the fragrance enters the drydown period, at the end, the smell of pleasant incense and patchouly with a support of woody-floral notes stays on a skin. More simple, on the timeline, olfactive journey would go like this: dry and sharp note - floral note with patchouly and incense - woody and floral base with dominant incense.

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Upravo zbog nedostatka ouda, ostale note, a pogotovo tamjan, preuzimaju dominaciju nad cijelom kompozicijom. Po meni je mana što nedostaje veći postotak ouda jer bi savršeno pristajao uz ovakav tamjan. Oud se nudi samo u otvaranju parfema i kasnije se više ne može osjetiti. Otvaranje je vrlo cvijetno i oštro zbog jakog tamjana i ouda. Kako se parfem razvija, nastaje nota tamjana koji je vrlo kratko crkven, a postepeno i on prelazi u ugodnu suhu notu koja se kombinira sa cvijećem. Prije linearne faze, jako se osjeti nota ruže, ali to je više geranium nego čista ruža, kardamon, papirus i papar. Parfem je iznimno ugodan začinski, ima dobru ravnotežu da nije previše napadan. Pačuli sam posebno izdvojio jer ako se ne skoncentrirate na cvijetne i začinske note, ono što se osjeti je samo pačuli koji je prilično dominantan skupa sa tamjanom. Nakon što se sve smiri i parfem uđe u svoju 'mirnu' fazu koja će ostati na kraju, ostaje dominantan miris ugodnog tamjana, pačulija u pratnji i drvenasto cvijetne pozadine. Kada bi postojao timeline, ovako bi isao olfaktivni put: suha i oštra nota - cvijetne note s tamjanom i pačulijem - drvena i cvjetna baza s tamjanom.

At the end we have another interesting perfume from Kilian. It hasn't overwhelmed me as the previous two from the collection, but it still smells beautiful and oriental. It takes you on a journey to a small town full of historic secrets...

Na kraju smo dobili još jedan zanimljivi parfem od Kiliana. Nije me oduševio kao prethodna dva iz kolekcije, ali svejedno miriši predivno i orijentalno. Odvede Vas u neki mali gradić pun povijesnih tajni...

BL'eauOG:
My ranking (1-5): 3/4

For: colder weather, every occasion
Type: dry, oriental, interesting
Notes: geranium, rose, papyrus, patchouly, sandalwood, cedar

           incense, cardamon, pepper, oak moss, labdanum, musk

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Note: 1st picture is taken from bykilian.com
2nd picture is taken from hauteliving.com