By Kilian Pure Oud

If this collection was told in a part of Arabian nights which I have introduced in yesterday's post, this perfume from the whole line would be the most intriguing and the most tense story from all others which have been launched on the market. Between Incense and Rose Oud, Pure Oud has won the title as the best from the line. The reason behind this is because there is too much rose and incense in other Ouds.

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Kada bi se o ovoj kolekciji mirisa pričalo u sklopu Arapskih noći koje sam predstavio u jučerašnjem uvodnom postu, ovaj parfem iz linije sigurno bi bila najintrigantnija i najnapetija priča od svih koji su do sada lansirani na tržište. Između Incense and Rose Ouda, Pure Oud za sada grabi titulu najboljeg iz razloga što se u preostalima previše osjeti tamjan i ruža za razliku od samog Oudovog ulja.

As I have said, in some Middle East countries, Oud oil has a big value and sometimes it's very well priced, it is even considered that has a greater value than the gold itself. Kilian is trying to conjure up that with a box, it's not black like in L'Oeuvre Noir  collection, it has golden plaque on top and golden tile on bottle. After all, Kilian is a great marketing mastermind. There are various opinions among perfume lovers about this whole line, especially about this perfume. There are opinions that this perfume is to much westernized and it's distinguished from oriental true version of oud oil. I say that this is Oud interpreted on a way of Mr. Kilian and perfumer Calice Becker. Since the Oud oil is balsamic and it's derived from Agar wood which is portected, the smell of oud is somehow old, evokes the 'old times' and the smell of pure oud is warm-balmy-animalistic woody smell.

Pure Oud has the word Pure in its name, but that's because it is thought that it should evoke the smell of orient, oud, Middle East in its purest formula within a harmony of modern interpretation as it was imagined by Kilian and Becker. Do not expect the smell of pure oud because that's not the purpose of this perfume or any other from the line.

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Kao što sam bio rekao, u nekim Bliskoistočnim zemljama, Oud ulje je toliko cijenjeno da ga smatraju skupljim i vrijednijim od samoga zlata. Kilian to pokušava dočarati time što kutija za ovu liniju nije crna kao u L'Oeuvre Noir kolekciji nego ima zlatni poklopac i zlatnu pločicu. Kilian je vrhunski majstor marketinga. Postoje različite među parfemoljupcima oko toga da li je ovaj parfem prikazao Oud na zapadni ili izvorni istočni način. Ja kažem niti jedno od toga dvoje. Ja kažem da je Oud interpretiran na način gospodina Kiliana i parfumera Calice Becker. Pošto je Oud balzamično ulje i dobiva se iz drva Agar koje raste samo na orijentalnom podneblju, te je zaštićena vrsta. Miris tog sastojka je nekako star, asocira na neka prošla vremena i miris čistog oud ulja je topao-balzamičan-animalističan drveni miris. 

Pure Oud u sebi nosi naziv Pure, ali to je zato što je parfem zamišljen na način da dočara miris orijenta, ouda, bliskog istoka u svojoj najčistijoj formi u skladu s njegovom modernom interpretacijom kako su ga zamislili Kilian i Becker. Nemojte očekivati miris čistog ouda jer to nije svrha ovog parfema, niti jednog drugog iz te linije. 

The smell of this perfume has intrigued me and caught my full attention. I didn't know what to expect because of the name Pure Oud. I have tested it few times so I could get the most precisely analysis. First of all, perfum is exceptionally deep, it has mediocre thickness and it isn't too dry. The opening is the rainstorm of all the notes that is made of which are attacking the sense of smell but in a good way. It smells very natural and we can not complain that it's synthetic. Now, the story about the gold again, in perfume formula it is used a real oud oil and throughout the whole composition, perfume evokes the golden color. Personally, in fron of my eyes I can see copper and golden color and Kilian has managed to do terrific thing. Using the real oud is very admirable! In the opening it is most likely that you can sense the purest oud which will not be shown again in the composition in that way throughout its drydown. That smell is very specific and it slowly intertwins with the notes which are not officially listed, and those notes reminds me of incense and vetiver, also, like it has a touch of cognac (probably incense). As it settles down, the perfume has the smell of oud which is lighter and lighter and it starts to melt with a tiny powdery and floral note of saffron, but as the oud dries down, in the spotlight comes incense which is very well concentrated and vetiver which is playing the role as it's in the base, and it's very dry and not wet at all. After a while, oud lightenes up a lot and it hasn't the strenght as we used to smell from By Kilian which makes him very moderate and unswaying. The smell would be like this; smoky because of incense, dry because of vetiver, sharp and deep because of oud and interesting because of saffron. All of that gives the exceptional smell which is unusal and not too balmy.

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Miris ovog parfema me je prilično začarao i jako zaintrigirao. Nisam znao što zapravo očekivati zbog naziva Pure Oud. Nekoliko puta sam ga isprobao da bih ga mogao analizirati. Prije svega, parfem je iznimno 'dubok', osrednje je gust i nije previše suh. Otvaranje parfema je pljusak svih nota koje sadrži u sebi koje napadaju sva osjetila njuha, ali to je jako pozitivno. Miriši vrlo prirodno i ne možemo se žaliti na miris sintetike. Sada, ona priča sa zlatom ponovno, u parfemskoj formuli ima zbilja oudovog ulja i parfem kroz cijelu kompoziciu strahovito asocira na zlatnu boju. Meni se osobno pred očima pojavljuje bakrena i zlatna i tu je Kilian napravio odličnu stvar. Korištenje pravog ulja je zbilja jako pohvalno. U tom otvaranju se osjeti vjerojatno najčistiji oud koji se neće više tako osjetiti u ostalom dijelu kompozicije. Taj miris je vrlo specifičan i lagano se isprepliće s notama koje nisu službeno izlistane, ali me jako podsjećaju na tamjan i vetiver te kao da ima tračak konjaka. Nakon što se sve malo smiri parfem ima miris ouda koji sve više i više blijedi i počinje se miješati s jednom puderastom i cvijetnom notom šafrana, ali kako sve više oud blijedi do izražaja dolazi tamjan kojeg zaista ima u priličnim količinama i vetiver koji je u bazi, a iznimno je suh, nije mokar vetiver. Nakon nekog vremena oud nestaje i parfem prilično brzo popusti, nema jačinu na kakvu smo navikli kod Kiliana što ga čini vrlo umjerenim i nije lepršav. Miris parfema bi bio ovakav; dimast zbog tamjana, suh zvog vetivera, oštar zbog ouda i interesantan zbog šafrana. To sve daje jedan odličan miris koji je neuobičajen i nije pretjerano balzamičan.

 This is one of the better oud perfumes and it can really take you to a trip to the Orient. It's exceptionally elegant and very very modern. I like that interpretation and even the perfume evokes the smell of something old, it is a t the same time interesting and irresistible. It is very noble creation. This perfume have an effect that it makes you feel as you are wearing something exclusive, rare and special. 

All I would like is that the Arabian nights (tales) go on and on...

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Ovo je jedan od boljih oud parfema i zbilja Vas može povesti na jedno putovanje na Orijent. Iznimno je elegantan i jako jako moderan. Sviđa mi se ta interpretacija jer iako parfem podsjeća malo na starinu, opet je toliko zanimljiv da je neodoljiv. Kreacija je jako plemenita. Ovaj parfem ima efekt da nosite nešto jako ekskluzivno na sebi, rijetko i posebno.

Sve što bih volio je da ove Arapske noći traju i dalje...

BL'eauOG:

My ranking (1-5): 4/5

Type: unisex, oriental; smoky, woody, warm

For: colder weather, formal wear

Notes: agarwood, saffron oil, guaiac oil, copahu balm oil

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Note: 1st picture is taken from bykilian.com
2nd picture is taken from abendblatt.de